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Blackbeard
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: TESLA COIL (0/1) Reply with quote

I posted those pics in
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
titled Tesla Coil Science Fair Project

I wish I knew more about how to help the kid succeed. He's had a
fairly tough tumble through school. He gets his attention by showing
his ass. He's never received any recognition for doing good work.
That's why I'm bugging you guys. If this thing works for him, this
will be the first time in his life that he'll get to experience real
pride up close and personal. I'm keeping my hands off this one and
just sorta guiding him along the best I can. When he flips that switch
and at the science fair, I think he's going to get their attention. It
could be the start of this kid realizing that real praise feels pretty
damn good vs. the snickering approval he gets from his classmates for
making an ass out of himself.

At this point, I think we have the thing just about finished. He's
wrapped 6 beer bottles with aluminum foil and filled them with salt
water topped with oil. He re-did the spark gap with 2-mm of space
between each piece of copper. I think all he has to do now is run a
little wiring and turn it on.

Anything special I need to know? Can he turn this thing on inside the
house or do we need to carry it out into the yard and use a drop cord?
After he turns it on, what should we expect? Will it take a few
minutes to fire up or will it start shooting sparks pretty quick? I'm
pretty excited for the kid. I sure as hell hope he pulls it off.

thanks for all the assistance you guys have offered. It's helped fill
in the blank spots.

On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 09:39:48 -0700, Mark Fergerson <nunya@biz.ness>
wrote:

Quote:
Blackbeard wrote:
So where would I purchase two of those "bullet proof" caps. Sounds
like that might be the best way to go. May not have time to find them
and use them before his science fair is due (Feb 17th). But if he gets
wimpy streamers, I'm sure he'll want to mess with this thing to get
more bang for his buck.

Sorry, should have been clearer. We were talking about a transformer
that's found in home heating systems that burn fuel oil (hence the name,
Oil Burning Ignition Transformer, or OBIT). It provides high voltage
from line voltage like neon or microwave oven transformers (MOTs), but
with more current capability, and they're more tolerant of situations
that draw lots of current without catastrophic failure, hence
"bulletproof". That greater current that most neon or MOTs means they
should be handled with extra care.

He's also been very impressed with pictures of people somehow routing
the lightening through their bodies and shooting bolts of lightening
from their fingerstips. He's found pics on the internet where people
have done that. I told him we had no way to test the current and no
equipment to check if it would be safe (basically, keep your grubby
hands off). It is my understanding that at the high voltage, it would
kill him so fast he'd never know he'd been zapped.

NO!!! DO NOT LET HIM DO THIS!!! Better he takes up ballet or something.

There was a guy who knew exactly what he was doing, giving
performances including this same "trick". He took every possible
precaution and still got killed in front of an audience. All it takes is
one tiny mistake.

He's already been
bitten by that transformer. It made an impression. He's been a lot
more careful since that transformer bit him

Good! Pain tells us not to do that again! The guy that died was
operating a fairly large coil running hundreds of watts. As long as
you're using a neon or MOT, getting zapped by the TC's output should be
shocking, but not fatal. Just don't tempt fate. Remind your son that
OBIT also stands for obituary.

BTW, I can't find your schematic on a.b.s.e. What title did you use?

Mark L. Fergerson
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PicMan
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: 16F819 to 16F877 Reply with quote

"Externet" <externet@inorbit.com> wrote in news:1103661008.928037.109260
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Quote:
Hi.
You are at the wrong forum. This is electronics.
Miguel



Give the guy a break...it's not like PIC's are made of chocolate!

Sorry I couldn't help ya Indra. I'd certainly review the Spec Pages on the
877 to see what the differences are. Also...keep an eye on the fact that
you are using a different port on the 877 than you were on the 819. Check
that the tris command is still legitimate and such.

swift
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John Popelish
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 29 Apr 2005
Posts: 1601

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: TESLA COIL (0/1) Reply with quote

Blackbeard wrote:
(snip)
Quote:
Anything special I need to know? Can he turn this thing on inside the
house or do we need to carry it out into the yard and use a drop cord?
After he turns it on, what should we expect? Will it take a few
minutes to fire up or will it start shooting sparks pretty quick? I'm
pretty excited for the kid. I sure as hell hope he pulls it off.

It will be going full blast in no more than .008 seconds ( a half line
cycle) after it is powered on. You can try it in the house, but I
would turn the computer and television off, first. Run it for a few
seconds and turn it off, unplug it, short the capacitors out with a
bit of high voltage wire and look everything over for signs of
heating, arching or other problems. Work your way up to longer tests,
but keep them under a minute and leave a few minutes cooling off
between them because this thing will probably wipe out television and
radio reception (including police, air traffic control and ambulance)
for the neighborhood.

--
John Popelish
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Lord Garth
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 363

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: help pls!! memory address decoder design Reply with quote

"petrus bitbyter" <p.kralt@reducespamforchello.nl> wrote in message
news:jNaMd.77040$PH1.22722@amsnews05.chello.com...
Quote:

CS is to be active low. The 6 upper address lines are not OR'd
together.




You are right if you consider the plus sign an OR which is usually done. I
also use to write the * for AND and the + for an OR but the other day I
had
to work with a text that used the + for an AND and a | for the OR. Very
uncommon but that's why I was mistaken. So you have to read :

CS = /A15 * A14 * /A13 * /A12 * /A11 * /A10

petrus bitbyter


I think we lost the OP....

I thought you might confuse the OP which is why I pointed it out. I think
some
text use the asterisk for negation rather than the / most of us use just to
mix
up our heads some more!
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Kelvin@!!!
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: help pls!! memory address decoder design Reply with quote

"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote in message
news:DEjMd.22838$wi2.655@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com...
Quote:

"petrus bitbyter" <p.kralt@reducespamforchello.nl> wrote in message
news:jNaMd.77040$PH1.22722@amsnews05.chello.com...

CS is to be active low. The 6 upper address lines are not OR'd
together.




You are right if you consider the plus sign an OR which is usually done.
I
also use to write the * for AND and the + for an OR but the other day I
had
to work with a text that used the + for an AND and a | for the OR. Very
uncommon but that's why I was mistaken. So you have to read :

CS = /A15 * A14 * /A13 * /A12 * /A11 * /A10

petrus bitbyter


I think we lost the OP....

I thought you might confuse the OP which is why I pointed it out. I think
some
text use the asterisk for negation rather than the / most of us use just
to
mix
up our heads some more!




thank you guys very much....

altho the notations are a bit confusing, i'm good with it...
i guess sooner or later im gonna mess up with the notations...

still remember the words my C intructor told me when he reject my code...
"No matter how good your code is, as long as it doens't follow my rules,
it's not completed. Here im the boss, you work for me. Just like in the
industry!!"
i was just using a differnet indent style...
--
{ Kelvin@!!! }
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Don Bruder
electronics forum Guru Wannabe


Joined: 03 May 2005
Posts: 190

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: TESLA COIL (0/1) Reply with quote

In article <4201BE21.B4276F6C@rica.net>,
John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net> wrote:

Quote:
Blackbeard wrote:
(snip)
Anything special I need to know? Can he turn this thing on inside the
house or do we need to carry it out into the yard and use a drop cord?
After he turns it on, what should we expect? Will it take a few
minutes to fire up or will it start shooting sparks pretty quick? I'm
pretty excited for the kid. I sure as hell hope he pulls it off.

It will be going full blast in no more than .008 seconds ( a half line
cycle) after it is powered on. You can try it in the house, but I
would turn the computer and television off, first. Run it for a few
seconds and turn it off, unplug it, short the capacitors out with a
bit of high voltage wire and look everything over for signs of
heating, arching or other problems. Work your way up to longer tests,
but keep them under a minute and leave a few minutes cooling off
between them because this thing will probably wipe out television and
radio reception (including police, air traffic control and ambulance)
for the neighborhood.

What John said, but personally, I'd go with *OUTSIDE*, *AWAY* from any
conductive "stuff" that isn't absolutely needed in the immediate
vicinity. It might be a good idea to take a metal folding chair with any
rubber/plastic on the legs removed, and place it nearby as a place to
encourage any sparks to go should it fire up spectacularly on the first
attempt, but *DON'T* get the hopes up real high at first. As Mark (I
think it was) mentioned, tuning a coil can be tricky until you get a
feel for the one you've got in front of you. It may take some
substantial fiddling to get it tuned up the the point of doing more than
buzzing and maybe glowing. But that's half the fun, sez Don :)

If it doesn't fire up at first, make sure to POWER DOWN AND SHORT THE
CAP USING A HEAVY, VERY WELL INSULATED WIRE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING THAT
EVEN RESEMBLES TRYING TO ADJUST IT! Personally, I'd suggest building a
conveniently placed "Short-out pad" somewhere so you can just use a
broom handle (Wooden, of course...) to mash a tab into contact with a
button and positively drain the cap.

Trying to adjust one of these guys while it's powered up is a good
recipe for a Darwin award if you don't know what you're doing, and do it
exactly right. Even the folks that pass as experts (as much as anyone
can be said to be an expert on Tesla coils, anyway) on these things
won't mess with a "live" one without *VERY* specific circumstances being
met, and the utmost caution. And with good reason! You truly are playing
with "miniature lightning", and just like the full-sized version, it'll
kill you deader than last week's chicken dinner before you can bat an
eye if you don't deal with it as the potentially deadly item that it is.

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.
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Jim Douglas
electronics forum addict


Joined: 30 Apr 2005
Posts: 94

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Help - I can't solder tiny resistors! Reply with quote

Thanks, I suck at those little things like that! Now how to remember this
when the brain is so full of other stuff, I will have to make space for this
information by removing something else, it's not working.

"Bob" <nimby1_notspamm_@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:MLNLd.3776$cl1.1951@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Quote:
"it's" = "it is", or "it has"
"its" is for everything else.

I knew you really wanted to know.

:-)

Bob


"Jim Douglas" <james.douglas@genesis-software.com> wrote in message
news:0Omdne2QVY9zwWLcRVn-gA@comcast.com...
place component, take a little scotch tape and take it's ass down!
solder,
remove tape, move to next component


"Dantanna" <wanton@want.com> wrote in message
news:CdjLd.2000$Wi6.138@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
I was trying to move a couple of SMD resistors and I am having a heck
of
a
time getting them soldered to a mobo. Can you guys please pass along
some
tips if you have them? Or a website?
Thanks -





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Jim Douglas
electronics forum addict


Joined: 30 Apr 2005
Posts: 94

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: anti-malware progs ineffective Reply with quote

Get the free stuff from Microsoft, it's seems to be OK, I have been using
and checking the results against other programs and so far 100%

"Terry Pinnell" <terrypinDELETE@THESEdial.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:2j5kv05pqvarkhnvn2nfu64248nl2ih6er@4ax.com...
Quote:
I was surprised to learn today that all anti-adware and anti-spyware
programs perform so badly. Here's an extract of the ranking, from
'Anti-adware misses most malware' By Brian Livingston, in
http://windowssecrets.com/050127/

Product Adware Fixed
---------------- ------------
Giant AntiSpyware 63%
Webroot Spy Sweeper 48%
Ad-Aware SE Personal 47%
Pest Patrol 41%
SpywareStormer 35%
Intermute SpySubtract Pro 34%
PC Tools Spyware Doctor 33%
Spybot Search & Destroy 33%
McAfee AntiSpyware 33%
Xblock X-Cleaner Deluxe 31%
XoftSpy 27%
NoAdware 24%
Aluria Spyware Eliminator 23%
OmniQuad AntiSpy 16%
Spyware COP 15%
SpyHunter 15%
SpyKiller 2005 15%

So, given that there must be great overlap, I reckon my
frequently-used combination of Ad-Aware SE Personal and Spybot Search
& Destroy is catching little more than half the malware reaching me.
Unsettling.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
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Bob Masta
electronics forum Guru Wannabe


Joined: 03 May 2005
Posts: 219

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: PCB etchants Reply with quote

On Wed, 2 Feb 2005 18:40:39 +0100, Dominic-Luc Webb <dlwebb@canit.se>
wrote:

Quote:

On Sun, 23 Jan 2005, it was written:

I keep reading on various websites that 'Persulphate' is a better etchant
than Ferric Chloride from Radio Shack, but I don't know how strong to mix
it and cannot seem to find any actual formulae.

I have, as it happens, plenty of both Ammonium and Potassium Persulphate,
and have tried mixing what I thought was a strongish solution of each,
but it seems very slow compared to Ferric Chloride. I did heat it, and
agitated the dish constantly, and the Potassium salt did go a bit blue,
but slow...slow...slow!


Yes, if you are still in here to read this, the ammonium persulphate can
be a bit slow, but it is much more gentle on the circuit pattern,
including lines drawn by "permanent" markers. Outgassing is also less
problematic. Reaction is concentration dependent. For a small double
sided board around 4x3 cm, I use around a heaping teaspoon and heat to
about 70 C. I just wait it out, as I am not usually in a big hurry and
am more concerned about a quality etch, and also environmental/health
issues in using some of the alternatives.

Dominic


Hmmm. At the lab where I used to work we tried
ammonium persulfate exactly one time... it completely
dissolved the "permanent" felt-tip lines, whereas with
ferric chloride we rarely had problems. We just used
the ammonium persulfate right out of the bottle (from
Radio Shack, I think... many years ago), so maybe it
needed dilution first?

Amazingly, we did find that most pre-mixed ferric chloride is too
*concentrated* to etch properly, so slow that it appears
to be exhausted on its first use. Dilution down to
1.30 specific gravity fixes it right up.

Best regards.


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
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Vidor Wolfe
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: TESLA COIL (0/1) Reply with quote

"Blackbeard" <Blackbeard_The_Great@Lycos.com> wrote in message
news:l9r1011h64k52sk4lei7mnmch02qdii4et@4ax.com...
Quote:
So where would I purchase two of those "bullet proof" caps. Sounds
like that might be the best way to go. May not have time to find them
and use them before his science fair is due (Feb 17th). But if he gets
wimpy streamers, I'm sure he'll want to mess with this thing to get
more bang for his buck.

He's also been very impressed with pictures of people somehow routing
the lightening through their bodies and shooting bolts of lightening
from their fingerstips. He's found pics on the internet where people
have done that. I told him we had no way to test the current and no
equipment to check if it would be safe (basically, keep your grubby
hands off). It is my understanding that at the high voltage, it would
kill him so fast he'd never know he'd been zapped. He's already been
bitten by that transformer. It made an impression. He's been a lot
more careful since that transformer bit him

The OBITs can be obtained secondhand from oil fired boiler maintenance
companies, scrapyards (free?) etc.
The caps... Well, tell us the value you need and we/I can tell you what you
need to buy.
You need Pulse caps of anything over 600v each ideally and values of 0.1uF,
0.68uF, 0.47uF are good starters.
I've used all of the above values, each rated at 1500V.
Ten of these in series will give 15000V working voltage. Really, you need at
least 15 in series to keep the cap safish from breaking down.
However, all of these caps in series will make the value quite small and to
bring the value up, we need to have lots of these "strings" in parallel.
Therefore, working with some of the coils I've built using similar values
and voltages, 45 - 60 caps (assuming you're using 1500V ones and not a lower
value) would be a good ballpark figure you should budget for.
At 50pence/cents per cap 23 - $23 to 30 - $30 for a reliable capacitor's
not too bad a price for success.
Of course, the bottle cap would be free.

Don't do the Electric Man stunt! Ever!
A few people in the TCBOUK do this using sophisticated wire harnesses and
power engineers chain mail suits/gloves.
It's not all it seems and these days we have a better understanding of the
"skin effect" and the human body.
The skin effect is for metal conductors and not humans.
You also have to take into account that the high frequency streamer can have
a 50/60Hz component. Not to mention if there's a fault and you get a primary
to secondary strike with a good high current 15000V straight up the
secondary.
Unless someone would like to put me right of course.
Cheers.
Mark.
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Vidor Wolfe
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: TESLA COIL (0/1) Reply with quote

"Blackbeard" <Blackbeard_The_Great@Lycos.com> wrote in message
news:2gd301dtjmeige0lvorv7q63k4kgu44m1u@4ax.com...
Quote:
I posted those pics in
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
titled Tesla Coil Science Fair Project

I wish I knew more about how to help the kid succeed. He's had a
fairly tough tumble through school. He gets his attention by showing
his ass. He's never received any recognition for doing good work.
That's why I'm bugging you guys. If this thing works for him, this
will be the first time in his life that he'll get to experience real
pride up close and personal. I'm keeping my hands off this one and
just sorta guiding him along the best I can. When he flips that switch
and at the science fair, I think he's going to get their attention. It
could be the start of this kid realizing that real praise feels pretty
damn good vs. the snickering approval he gets from his classmates for
making an ass out of himself.

At this point, I think we have the thing just about finished. He's
wrapped 6 beer bottles with aluminum foil and filled them with salt
water topped with oil. He re-did the spark gap with 2-mm of space
between each piece of copper. I think all he has to do now is run a
little wiring and turn it on.

Anything special I need to know? Can he turn this thing on inside the
house or do we need to carry it out into the yard and use a drop cord?
After he turns it on, what should we expect? Will it take a few
minutes to fire up or will it start shooting sparks pretty quick? I'm
pretty excited for the kid. I sure as hell hope he pulls it off.

thanks for all the assistance you guys have offered. It's helped fill
in the blank spots.

I've run 2" coils indoors and bigger at Teslathons.

However, the garage or other such place is best.
Outside in the UK is generally a pain.
Wind can reduce streamers, I know from experience. And damp? Always a worry.
The other thing to remember, apart from keeping it away from any electrical
appliance, is to use a good RF earth, not connected to the house wiring or
plumbing.
A good length of copper pipe in the damp earth is good.
Also remember that moving a coil from location to location can change the
tuning.
Always have a tweak for best performance in 1/4 to 1/2 turns on the primary.
Never adjust a coil when energised and always discharge the caps to RF earth
via a wand and thick wire.
Leave the wand attached to the primary or cap when the coil is being worked
on.
The caps will probably be electrically leaky and the charge will possibly
bleed off quickly, but that is an unknown in the is case.
Aklways manually discharge.
Good luck.
Mark H.
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Skaface
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: PCB etchants Reply with quote

Bob Masta wrote:
Quote:
On Wed, 2 Feb 2005 18:40:39 +0100, Dominic-Luc Webb <dlwebb@canit.se
wrote:


On Sun, 23 Jan 2005, it was written:


I keep reading on various websites that 'Persulphate' is a better etchant
than Ferric Chloride from Radio Shack, but I don't know how strong to mix
it and cannot seem to find any actual formulae.

I have, as it happens, plenty of both Ammonium and Potassium Persulphate,
and have tried mixing what I thought was a strongish solution of each,
but it seems very slow compared to Ferric Chloride. I did heat it, and
agitated the dish constantly, and the Potassium salt did go a bit blue,
but slow...slow...slow!


Yes, if you are still in here to read this, the ammonium persulphate can
be a bit slow, but it is much more gentle on the circuit pattern,
including lines drawn by "permanent" markers. Outgassing is also less
problematic. Reaction is concentration dependent. For a small double
sided board around 4x3 cm, I use around a heaping teaspoon and heat to
about 70 C. I just wait it out, as I am not usually in a big hurry and
am more concerned about a quality etch, and also environmental/health
issues in using some of the alternatives.

Dominic



Hmmm. At the lab where I used to work we tried
ammonium persulfate exactly one time... it completely
dissolved the "permanent" felt-tip lines, whereas with
ferric chloride we rarely had problems. We just used
the ammonium persulfate right out of the bottle (from
Radio Shack, I think... many years ago), so maybe it
needed dilution first?

Amazingly, we did find that most pre-mixed ferric chloride is too
*concentrated* to etch properly, so slow that it appears
to be exhausted on its first use. Dilution down to
1.30 specific gravity fixes it right up.

Best regards.


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

I use ammonium persulphate here for my home projects, I use those iron
on laser printer masks. It will even etch out surface mount IC pads
perfectly. Usually takes about 3-5 minutes to fully etch the board,
however i usually make the mix a bit weaker as to save money.
The directions on this stuff that i have are to mix 400 grams of
ammonium persulphate in one to one-and-a-half litres of water heated to
about 60 to 70 degrees C
Back to top
Larry Brasfield
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 358

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: TESLA COIL Reply with quote

Not much electronics in this post. You've been warned.

"Blackbeard" <Blackbeard_The_Great@Lycos.com> wrote in message
news:75mnv0t7knvc32gm7bcf5csujav2odku1s@4ax.com...
Quote:
My kid is building a tesla coil for his science fair project.

From what you've written about this, I hope it does not
become a disappointment or problem. So I offer this
unsolicited advice:

Your son, or somebody on his behalf, should get this
demonstration approved before the big day. If this
has not been done, with safety procedures and signs
in place that are satisfactory to whoever is in charge
of the fair, there is a good chance that somebody in
chage will freak out when the Tesla coil is run, and
shut it down for the day. And I would not count on
such people to be technically savvy enough to know
what the real hazards are versus imagined hazards.
That is why some early discussions are in order.

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.
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jsmith
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 23 Jun 2005
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Simple Battery Monitor Circuit Required Reply with quote

Geese, what a lot of irrelevant questions!!!


"John Popelish" <jpopelish@rica.net> wrote in message
news:41EEBEC7.F8FEF891@rica.net...
Quote:
Nigel Heather wrote:
"John Popelish" <jpopelish@rica.net> wrote:
Nigel Heather wrote:

I'm trying to think up a very simple circuit which will monitor
battery
level. Requirements are

Vbatt > Threshold --- LED is off
Vbatt < Threshold --- LED is on
Vbatt = Threshold --- Not fussed LED could be on or off
Accuracy of t=Threshold is not too important

Here's the catch. I'm looking for a very low component count - I'm
think
a
transitor, zener, LED and one or two resistors.

I can think of circuits using comparators, ICs, multi-stage
transistors
but
I feel there is a clever circuit that I'm missing.

Clever ideas would be most welcome.

The circuit depends very much on the specific threshold voltage you
have in mind but haven't specified.

Sorry didn't think it mattered that much and I didn't want to constrain
the
creative juices - around the 6 - 6.4V mark. Nominal around 7.4V.
Undepleted O/C voltage around 8.2V. Can you guess what it is?

Not interested in guessing. But to put my original point into
perspective, how would the general concept you have in mind vary if
the battery was a 1.2 volt cell or a 300 volt UPS battery?

Now, the next question: How concerned are you with power consumption,
both when the LED is on and when it is off?

--
John Popelish
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Rich Grise
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 3971

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: anti-malware progs ineffective Reply with quote

On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 10:40:56 -0500, Mark Jones wrote:
Quote:
Steve Rush wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 16:38:32 -0500, Mark Jones wrote:
I can second this motion. I switched to FireFox and Thunderbird...
got lots of new features, it's faster, no popups, no "window
maximizing", no "webpages which play annoying music", no malware...
can't say enough good things about switching. You'll be glad you did!
Why not go the rest of the way and defenestrate? If you have a broadband
connection and a CD burner, you can get the Knoppix ISO free from
www.distrowatch.com. The Knoppix CD is bootable; you can get a look at
Linux without writing anything at all to your hard disk.
I run Fedora Core 3, the free branch of Red Hat Linux, dual-booting with
WinXP. Except for a really cool implementation of Conway's Game of Life
(look for life32.exe) I haven't used Windows in months. I may delete
the XP partition and give the whole disk to Linux. There are Linux
workalikes, most of them open-source, for most Windows apps, including
Microsoft Office. My most important anti-malware measure is to physically
unplug the network cable before booting Windows.

I've thought about this [trying 'nix again]. I tried a version of RedHat back
in '01 (nifty Matrix-style screensaver, heh.) I didn't use WiNE or any other
translator. The problem arises in the number of PC-only apps I use daily for
which there is no 'nix port for. Without half these windows programs I'm sunk.
It sucks being "locked in" to Microsoft - guess they'd say that's a good
buisness plan though. Could one honestly expect an app like
http://labcenter.co.uk to run emulated, and even run well on 'nix?

I don't know why not, if there's a decent emulator yet.

If you've paid for the program, what are the odds of getting source code
and porting it?

Quote:
I was very suprised to run across ePSXe - a PlayStation1 Emulator for the PC.
Lo and behold, run the emulator, put in your playstation disc, and it runs! I
guess this shouldn't be so amazing, but considering the archetecture is
completely different...

That's nothing! Check out MAME! http://www.mame.net/

Runs every arcade game that's ever been made! And it's even available for
Linux, although I haven't looked deeply into configuring it yet; when I'm
going to sit and play, it's simpler to just unplug the network and boot
'doze.

Cheers!
Rich
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