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Notebook computer sized cells..... Where to buy ?
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Zoran
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 25 Mar 2005
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: Notebook computer sized cells..... Where to buy ? Reply with quote

On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 17:38:47 GMT, "CWatters"
<colin.watters@pandoraBOX.be> wrote:

Quote:

"Zoran" <zoran@hotpop.com> wrote in message
news:cgqt31hgkp283i66m5nsv35nj6v7kues20@4ax.com...

Hi! Does anyone here know where to purchase
NiMH cells of the type used in laptops? These
are normally rated @ 4 Ah or higher.

Which country? Which physical size?

In the UK you can get just about any cell from....

http://www.overlander.co.uk/
eg NiMH cells...
http://www.overlander.co.uk/results.asp?categoryid=64

Are you trying to repair a laptop?

Yes! My own IBM Thinkpad laptops' battery pack ..... it's

come to a stage where the battery can power it for only
about 10 min or so after a full charge.
A number of computer shops here offer this notebook
"upgrading" service but the selling price of a "reconditioned"
pack is about 70% to 75% of a new one.
I'm wondering whether the "Sony" range of new NiMH
AA cells marketed under "Stamina" and "CycleEnergy"
and rated @ 2300mAh will accept sustained high current
( 1.5 - 1.8 Amp ) discharge rates? If they can, it'll mean
at least one hours' usage between charges..... no?
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Guest






PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: Notebook computer sized cells..... Where to buy ? Reply with quote

I've got some here, 3.8AH. Any use?

Regards,
-A
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CWatters
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 02 May 2005
Posts: 494

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: Notebook computer sized cells..... Where to buy ? Reply with quote

"Zoran" <zoran@hotpop.com> wrote in message
news:dcb341t119c9d3vasaosflm247sst9ujqq@4ax.com...
Quote:
Yes! My own IBM Thinkpad laptops' battery pack ..... it's
come to a stage where the battery can power it for only
about 10 min or so after a full charge.

I assume the existing batteries are NiMH not Lithium Ion? You must replace
the cells with cells using the same technonogy or you will have problems
with the charger.

Quote:
A number of computer shops here offer this notebook
"upgrading" service but the selling price of a "reconditioned"
pack is about 70% to 75% of a new one.
I'm wondering whether the "Sony" range of new NiMH
AA cells marketed under "Stamina" and "CycleEnergy"
and rated @ 2300mAh will accept sustained high current
( 1.5 - 1.8 Amp ) discharge rates? If they can, it'll mean
at least one hours' usage between charges..... no?

What's the old pack rated at? Can you measure the old cell length and
diameter?
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Ken Taylor
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 25 Mar 2005
Posts: 492

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: Cell phone Jammer for sale Reply with quote

"Noah Little" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:d1re5g$h0t$31@n4vu2.n4vu.com...
Quote:
donestuardo@yahoo.com wrote:
hint great for
getting rid of loser tenants who depend on their cell phones for
calls).

Hint: using it in the U.S. could land you in jail.

And anywhere else for that matter. And what's the problem with tenants using
cell phones anyway? OP = tosser.
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CWatters
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 02 May 2005
Posts: 494

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: Notebook computer sized cells..... Where to buy ? Reply with quote

"Zoran" <zoran@hotpop.com> wrote in message
news:3dg5415dpgdgdvij3b0hnegnf4ojvdm4m8@4ax.com...

Quote:
10.8 volts 4 Ah.
Each cell is 1.2 volts @ 4000 mAh / L = 2.4" / D = 0.75"

Thats close to 4/3rds AF (also called 4/3rds AU) form factor I think. eg a
cell 4/3rds as long as a standard A cell.

http://www.powerstream.com/Size.htm

I can't comment on the accuracy of this chart as different manufacturers
have their own ideas about cell dimensions.
Cells nominally from the "A" series seem to vary between 16.5 and 18mm
diameter. However the standard lengths are around 42/41mm, 48.5-50mm, and
66-67mm - I think only the 66-67mm cells have capacities around 4000mAH.
66mm = 2.6" which might be too big for you..

Some manufacturers make cells with different shape +ve terminals - eg
designed for welding or spring battery holders. This can effect the length
by 1mm or so.

Beware: Always check the physical dimensions of any cells you are thinking
of buying as many web sites are sloppy when it comes to the names they give
them.

If you find cells about the right size it might help to know that you can
solder most cells end-to-end without using wires if you know what you are
doing and make or buy the right type of soldering iron bit....

http://www.logoheli.com/end2end.htm

The trick is to make sure the cells are very clean (I use sandpaper), use a
flux, and a big soldering iron.
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Jon G.
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 02 May 2005
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: Remote controlled audio potentiometer (OT?) Reply with quote

If it were me doing it, I'd tear out the remote sensor out of my
old TV, power it up, connect it to a meter, press the volume on
the remote, and see how it affects the sensor. Another
possibility is to see how the channel-up, channel-down buttons
affect the sensor. If I figure anything out, then I could use
the signal to drive a reversible DC motor geared down to 1
revolution per 5 seconds with a slip clutch in case the motor
overshoots or undershoots the limits of the pot.

Maxy888 wrote:

Quote:
Hello,

I would like to change the manual volume potentiometer of my integrated
amplifier with a motor-driven potentiometer which must be infrared
controlled.

My question is simple...

How do I do that?

I've already chosen the potentiometer, what do I need now? A servo control?
And what about the infrared control and reciever?

Do you have any idea about some newsgroup I colud ask in?

Thank You

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Ol' Duffer
electronics forum addict


Joined: 05 May 2005
Posts: 87

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: Veroboard cutting and veroboard-layouting Reply with quote

In article <W8SZd.19761$d5.149287@newsb.telia.net>, bos@hack.org says...
Quote:
As stated above, I'm using veroboards (stripboard and breadboard is a
synonyme for the same thing, i think) for building my circuits. I also
own a licence of Electronic Workbench (Multisim and Ultiboard are the
ones I use most frequently). However, since I do not own any etching
equipment Ultiboard is of less use for me since it can only do
PCB-layout/routing. I have contacted the developers to hear if there was
any possibility to make Ultiboard output to veroboards, but regretfully
enough UB is designed for PCB only, was the answer.

I am not familiar with that package, but have used commercial
routing programs to do veroboard and thought it was a piece of
cake. At least compared to pencil, eraser, and graph paper.
Just snap to a 0.100" grid and remember that the traces on the
bottom only run one direction. No it won't tell you where to
make cuts, but is that really so hard to figure out?

Quote:
2. When constructing on veroboards, I often have the need in cutting the
boards to smaller shapes and I've found that it's pretty cumbersome
since I haven't found any good tips of how to do it the right way. For
new boards, I could take a small saw and shape it up without much
problems. But for new circuits that I haven't done before, cutting the
boards could lead to a too small board in the end, requiring me to start
it all over again.

A bandsaw with a fine-tooth blade is a beautiful thing, but
a hacksaw can serve. With small boards, I sometimes find it
easier to clamp the saw in a bench vise and drag the board
across it.

Or with a little practice, you can score the board and break
it over a sharp table edge like you would a piece of glass.
It may help to cut through the foil at the desired break line,
as it is tougher than the board. The key is to create an
obvious path of least resistance.

Cut or score along the holes, as this is the weakest place,
and any random breaks will tend to occur here anyway. If you
need to trim down further to that 0.050" between holes, a
belt sander or bench grinder works well. Or a fine-tooth
file for inside corners.
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Ross Herbert
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 03 May 2005
Posts: 429

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: Veroboard cutting and veroboard-layouting Reply with quote

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 08:30:46 GMT, Rikard Bosnjakovic <bos@hack.org>
wrote:

Quote:
Greetings

As a newcomer to the wonderful world of electronics, I have recently
setup a minor electronics lab in my home and started to build a few
things. My tools and equipment exists of standard components (resistors,
capacitors, ICs, etc), soldering iron, a bunch of veroboards and a
multimeter. I do not, however, own an oscillator or any of those more
expensive tools like PCB-etching equipment and such. Atleast not yet.

As stated above, I'm using veroboards (stripboard and breadboard is a
synonyme for the same thing, i think) for building my circuits. I also
own a licence of Electronic Workbench (Multisim and Ultiboard are the
ones I use most frequently). However, since I do not own any etching
equipment Ultiboard is of less use for me since it can only do
PCB-layout/routing. I have contacted the developers to hear if there was
any possibility to make Ultiboard output to veroboards, but regretfully
enough UB is designed for PCB only, was the answer.

1. Is there any layout/routing-application that is able to output
layouts for veroboards? I have only found two cheap shareware-programs
on Google. Even if they work, they were terribly tedious to use (limited
amount of components etc). Is there no commercial or fully developed
program anywhere? A great plus would be if the program could read the
format that Multisim saves to, thus allowing me to save time by not
designing the whole circuit all over.


None that I know of. If you think about it, Veroboard is intended for
prototyping only in order to verify a circuit design. Of course it
does have it's use as final board for a one-off design but essentially
it is used only for prototyping. It would not be viable for any
software designer to develop a layout package for Veroboard since the
ultimate goal for any product manufacturer who uses an electronics
module is to go to a standard pcb layout.
Quote:

2. When constructing on veroboards, I often have the need in cutting the
boards to smaller shapes and I've found that it's pretty cumbersome
since I haven't found any good tips of how to do it the right way. For
new boards, I could take a small saw and shape it up without much
problems. But for new circuits that I haven't done before, cutting the
boards could lead to a too small board in the end, requiring me to start
it all over again.

Yes, the cut-after-fitting-components does make it difficult and is
only recommended for very small boards maybe up to 50 x 50mm. With
this approach I always cut with a 32tpi hacksaw blade with the blade
teeth flat across the copper strips or in between strips as the case
may be. You have to ensure that the board is held rigidly and this may
be difficult and also make sure that you use both hands to guide the
hacksaw frame and use small forward motions to start. When you have
scored the board to about half thickness it will then snap quite
cleanly such that a file will tidy up any irregulariies. Of course you
can cut to a greater depth to make it even neater.
Quote:

Therefore I build new circuits on unmodified boards, so I get the whole
space to begin with and cut it down later. But here's the problem. When
I cut (not using a saw), the board usually tends to break up and it
seems it doesn't want to be cut in straight line. I've tried a long and
sharp knife, placing it between the lines of copper, and pushed hard.
But the board still tends to break up in pieces near the end.

Has anyone got a tip / link for me where I can read about how to cut
boards without any breaks?


The best way to construct larger boards is simply by proper planning

on paper. I draw out the physical shape of the components about 2x
scale on paper so that they occupy a logical arrangement according to
the circuit schematic. This can take a good deal of experience based
upon the characteristics of the individual components you are placing.
This knowledge only comes with years of experience so I can't give you
specific instruction in this regard. You can use lined paper so the
lines simulate the copper traces or you can use linear graph paper on
a 0.1" grid to draw it up full size. You need to work out where to cut
traces and where to add wire links to suit your design. Use a soft
black pencil and remember an eraser is your best friend The more time
you spend on the paper layout the easier it will be to add the
components to a piece of board which is pre-cut to its finished size.
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Ken Smith
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 06 May 2005
Posts: 1727

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: OT: Canada Agrees to be Missile Target Reply with quote

In article <6o1a219he1kdmdiv56pik8orbus205pacf@4ax.com>,
Jim Thompson <thegreatone@example.com> wrote:
Quote:
On 1 Mar 2005 16:20:05 -0800, "Dave" <galt_57@hotmail.com> wrote:

Since a "shot down" missile would probably land on Canada those Canucks
better get started on an "anti-anti-missile-missile" system.

That was my point exactly. Makes you wonder how PM Martin's brain
works, if at all, by bowing out of the mutual defense agreement.

Maybe he sees it as publicly painting a target on his chest. Without an
agreement the US and Canada can do what they want even if it is the same
thing that the agreement spelled out.

Canada did not support the war in Iraq but Canadian troops went over when
the US deployed its troops. I think they sent 2 boy scouts and a Jeep or
in other words about 1/3 of their standing forces.

--
--
kensmith@rahul.net forging knowledge
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Michael A. Terrell
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Posts: 2291

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: What the heck is this? Reply with quote

Melissa wrote:
Quote:

Ruediger <ruediger.leibrandt@gmx.de> wrote :

Melissa wrote:

News Me <newsTWOme@pacifier.com> wrote :

Melissa wrote:
What's a VQ1006J by the way? I've been out of the field for awhile but
don't recall those.

Looks like it's a quad, enhancement mode MOSFET.

http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/513/VQ1006P.php


Nice. 90V even.




Now I'm curious: What were these boards? the Link to the pictures didn't
worked for me, so now I'm curious even more.


Why wouldn't the link work?

Try http://dimensional.com/~melissa/photos/Optotech%201178%20boards2.JPG

--
Yours In Liberty, Melissa - Colorado, U.S.A.
http://melissasliberty.blogspot.com/

The last best hope for liberty, to give the world its first Bill of
Rights: http://www.UPAlliance.org/billofrights.htm

It works for me. I could use a handful of the 4044 chips on the boards.
--
Beware of those who post from srvinet.com!

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
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Gareth
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 25 Mar 2005
Posts: 750

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: beware DESERTBOB aka BOB SCARBOROUGH-Ebay-Usenet Reply with quote

trippingtoo8track@yahoo.com wrote:
Quote:
Put him on your killfile

Killfile...yeah, that's the ticket.
<plonk>
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Michael
electronics forum Guru Wannabe


Joined: 03 May 2005
Posts: 190

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: OT: Still cracks me up Reply with quote

Jim Thompson wrote:
Quote:

Had my usual $120 lunch at one of my favorite Italian places (Tomaso's
for those of you living in the Valley).

After all these years I still crack up when I see this picture in the
hallway leading to the restrooms....

http://www.analog-innovations.com/Musings/LorenMansfield.JPG

...Jim Thompson




"They look real nice tonight. Er ... YOU look real nice.
Waiter? ... I'd like a side order of asparagus tits."
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Doug Warner
electronics forum beginner


Joined: 23 May 2005
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: LED Life when overrun Reply with quote

"CWatters" <colin.watters@pandoraBOX.be> wrote:


Quote:
This page has a graph for the "Half life time of Luminous Intensity" vs
Junction temperature....

This reminds me of a project I've wanted to try for some time. Get an

unencapsulated LED and submerge it in liquid nitrogen, with a pump
create a strong flow across the LED, to prevent bubbles from forming.
The idea is to see how bright I can get it if all the heat is removed.
What I haven't been able to find is LED's, mounted on the frame, bond
wire attached, but no encapsulating plastic..

To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@"
Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
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CWatters
electronics forum Guru


Joined: 02 May 2005
Posts: 494

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: LED Life when overrun Reply with quote

"Doug Warner" <dwarner22@ccharter.net> wrote in message
news:9q3231h8nq0se2edaj8cl94r7730ec4ifm@4ax.com...
"This reminds me of a project I've wanted to try for some time.

Why?
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Zak
electronics forum Guru Wannabe


Joined: 30 Apr 2005
Posts: 263

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Re: LED Life when overrun Reply with quote

Doug Warner wrote:

Quote:
This reminds me of a project I've wanted to try for some time. Get an
unencapsulated LED and submerge it in liquid nitrogen,

ISTR a bare chip is not a very good light transmitter. Index of
refraction and all that.

In any case some of the plastic can be dissolved.. OTOH a lot of the
heat can be extracted through the metal leads anyway.




Thomas
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