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1 phase - use a starter?
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electronics forum beginner

Joined: 18 Jul 2006
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:52 pm    Post subject: 1 phase - use a starter? Reply with quote

Application is a 40s Craftsman belt-drive table saw upon which I have
just recently completed a "rebuild" - complete dismantle, stripped,
cleaned/derusted, new bearings and snap clips. Bought two and am using
best parts from both. One had a Dayton 2HP 115/230V, 21/11.5amp, 3450
rpm, sealed motor with external fan, on an H56 frame. This is the one I
intend to mount and use on the saw.

In other news . . . because I have and am teaching my 13 yo son (and
some of his friends) in use of my woodworking tools, have set up a
large hoffman control panel with pilots, AB key lock switches and
estops in the line both on the control panel and on/near the machines
themselves. All 120volt machines have had plugs changed to heavy duty
twist lock plugs that go into nearby mounted matching outlets so that
lock-switched control panel cannot be easily end run. Keys stay with me
- not foolproof if he is determined, but certainly enough to slow him
down big time. The estops on/near the various machines are so I can
kill the power while he is using it, should a problem arise. Or of
course I can stand outta the way near the control panel and kill the
power there should it be necessary.

TRUE QUESTION> In doing the research to purchase the correct switches
(all AB) I bumped into the motor starter phenomenon and it's
occaisional use on 1 phase motors to relieve startup and overload
strain. Now my Dayton is almost certainly a capacitor start motor. Can
one even employ the use of a motor starter for a capacitor start 1
phase motor? Now because I have both an estop and a gaurded footswitch
on the saw, if I did employ a starter, it would almost need to be
mounted on the side of the saw itself because a motor starter, correct
me if I'm wrong, should have no power obstructions between itself and
the motor. Is the whole idea of a starter in my application pure
overkill and folly? Or could it make sense to protect the motor with
cleaner power and easier starts, creating longevity of the Dayton? Heck
maybe the capacitor controls that and the whole thing is ludicris.
Somebody help me, please.

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